While several of the world’s orchestras are struggling to pay their players, never mind expand, Stavanger has just built a new £100 million concert hall, its interior a triumph of acoustic engineering and its public side with airy atriums and bars looking across attractive bays. This celebratory concert to mark the Konserthus’ opening was heavily packed and warmly received.
Stavanger itself shows few signs of its industrial past, beyond a large museum dedicated to the history of oil, on which much of the city’s success is based. It lies on the south-western coast of Norway, sheltered from the sea by numerous islands and around 90 minutes from fjords and mountains. Its centre is pleasantly compact, allowing one to wander freely around the narrow, cobbled streets safe in the knowledge that the seafront is never far. Here the town’s trademark white wooden houses stand beside tastefully modern developments. The city cathedral, the country’s oldest, is around 900 years old. A constant, subtle smell of salty fish pervades the cool air, and it is superbly-cooked fresh fish that takes centre stage on most menus. The new Konserthus lies a short walk from the city centre, accessed either along the seafront or through the gloriously quaint and well preserved old town, a small area of seventeenth and eighteenth century cottages. The excitement around town for the new hall is plain to see, with plans for chamber recitals and even “Opera for Babies” (in a large tent) around the hall’s numerous spaces and venues. The musicians themselves cannot find high enough praise for it.
Frenchman Yan Pascal Tortelier programmed two pioneering French works either side of Mozart. Berlioz’s Symphonie fantastique, written in 1830 (just three years post-Beethoven), redefined orchestration and paved the way for the likes of Wagner, Mahler and Strauss. Exactly a century later, Olivier Messiaen wrote Les offrandes oubliées, an early work in his unmistakable idiom with rhythmic and tonal ambiguities and religious themes abounding. The contrast between the two works could scarcely be greater: Berlioz’s is an opium-fuelled string of progressively more and more vivid hallucinations, and Messiaen’s is a reflection on faith, sin and redemption.
Messiaen’s work consists of two slow sections, “The Cross” and “The Eucharist”, with a central, quicker passage, “Sin”. The strings of Stavanger Symphony Orchestra opened the concert with taut, translucent playing against colourful woodwind chords. “Sin” was attacked with gusto in horn glissandi and shrill woodwind, suggestive of the birdsong so common in Messiaen’s music. The ensuing redemptive “Eucharist” was built from a superbly slow adagio, woodwinds shifting from chord to chord with perfectly coordinated movement in a steady decrescendo into silence.