With its long stretch of white beach and dotted about with spa hotels, Pärnu is truly Estonia's summer capital. Families have holidayed here for years, including Estonia's great musical dynasty, the Järvis. Neeme would bring his wife and children here and it was in Pärnu that a young Paavo Järvi first met Dmitri Shostakovich. The great violinist David Oistrakh would invite young musicians to play with him in the dacha he rented each summer and it is in this spirit that, in 2011, Paavo created a music festival to foster – and celebrate – young Estonian musical talent.
The Pärnu Music Festival features an Academy Orchestra – headed by Neeme, the godfather of the Estonian classical music scene – and a programme of conducting masterclasses. But the pride of Pärnu is Paavo's Estonian Festival Orchestra, an ensemble hand-picked by the conductor which features a core of young Estonians balanced by soloists from top orchestras around Europe. The orchestra is making international waves – including an impressive debut at the BBC Proms last summer – but to hear them on their own turf in front of its adoring home audience gave the perfect introduction to this festival's ethos.
There were strong Baltic and Scandinavian roots in the EFO's programme, which included works by Estonians Erkki-Sven Tüür, a featured composer this season, and Kristjan Järvi. Written for strings, Tüür's L'ombra della croce takes Carlo Gesualdo's motet O crux benedicta as its reference point, its rich polyphonic ecstasies reminding me of Tippett's treatment of Corelli. The bright acoustic of the Pärnu Concert Hall allowed each luminous shaft of string colour to bounce and reflect from each slightly cold surface. Kristjan's Korale for 80, a revision of his 2017 work to celebrate his Neeme's 80th birthday, has a similarly religious base. Taking a Bach chorale, he sprinkles it with harp and percussion flecks from the opening, building it into an uplifting crescendo capped by tubular bells; the performance was tightly moulded. When Paavo called his brother to the stage to take a bow and share a hug, I could see Neeme glowing with pride in the row behind me.