Bruges has long been an important destination for travellers. Its name probably derives from the old Dutch word for “bridge” – appropriate for a city which lays claim (along with Amsterdam and Manchester) to the title “the Venice of the North”, with its busy network of canals. It was an important location along the old trade routes between the Hansa cities of the north and commercial regions of France, Italy and Spain. The city was a centre for cloth fairs and wool markets, as well as being famous for its lace. Most of its medieval architecture is still intact and in 2000 Bruges was declared a World Heritage Site.
Bruges is also an important destination for cultural travellers. The capital of the West Flanders province in the Flemish region of Belgium, Bruges is packed with culture. The only difficulty for the musical tourist is deciding when to actually visit, for Bruges boasts four important music festivals as well as hosting a packed classical music season. Its concert hall – the Concertgebouw – was built in 2002 (when the city was European Capital of Culture) and is a marvel, famed for its “acoustic wizardry” which generates “a great deal of warmth and richness of reverberation”.
A bulging season brochure promises a great deal to the musical tourist. Fine Belgian orchestras such as the National Orchestra of Belgium, the Brussels Philharmonic and the Royal Flemish Philharmonic are bolstered by visits from the Rotterdam Philharmonic under its charismatic conductor Yannick Nézet-Séguin. However, it’s in the area of early music and, in particular, period instrument performance that Bruges is almost indecently rich. I cannot think of another city in the world where so many accomplished period bands are on offer this season.
Two festivals in particular should attract fans of early music. The sixth Bach Academy Bruges festival in January juxtaposes the music of Bach and Buxtehude. Such was Buxtehude’s reputation as an organist that in 1705, Bach made the trek from Arnstadt to Lübeck on foot – some 400 kilometres – to meet him and hear him play. Collegium Vocale Gent and Philippe Herreweghe open the festival with Buxtehude’s Membra Jesu Nostri, closing it with Bach cantatas. From Scotland, the Dunedin Consort offers a rich, varied programme, including the Brandenburg Concerto no. 6 and cantatas sung by star countertenor Iestyn Davies. Bach Academy Bruges has a number of related events to help put the music in context; most attractively, perhaps, an appetising event titled “Bach and Beer”, where you can sample local brews alongside Bach Cello Suites!
Later in the year, there is the MAfestival Bruges in July and August, one of the world’s most important early music festivals. It was founded in 1963 and is an adventurous collection of performances, lectures and educational activities, alongside exhibitions about historical instruments. There is the associated annual International Competition Musica Antiqua too. The MAfestival also has a lively fringe series of events, offering young performers a stage. Details of the 2016 festival will be announced in March, when you’ll be able to find them here on Bachtrack.