People like to say that the style of architecture in Budapest is ‘eclectic’. I often wonder if this is just a handy word for people who know about architecture to fob off people like me who don’t. Then again, it is accurate. Nothing is more likely than to see a secessionist (i.e. Art Nouveau) block of flats next to a neo-renaissiance office block, opposite a super-modern construction and two eyesores from the communist era that you’d rather not even talk about, let alone look at. In fact, if you’ve found yourself in Szervita tér, then that’s exactly what you’ll see.
The Torok Bank House is just one example of the range of art nouveau buildings you can find about the city, and whilst I shall point out what I feel are some of the best ones, the main point to take away from this is that you should constantly be looking up – in Budapest there is always something to see when walking around the city.
That said, if you will settle for nothing but the best example of secessionist architecture in Budapest, then you can do no better than The Royal Postal Savings Bank, at 4 Hold utca. Turning the corner onto an otherwise innocuous street, you will find your vision dominated by a gargantuan extravanganza of colour and curlicues; the roof tiles alone are enough to keep you blinking. This was built by Ödön Lechner, Hungary’s premier architect, in 1901, and is still in use today as the National Treasury. Make sure you pop inside though: the foyer is just as impressive as the outside, and slightly shinier.
If after that you need a break from art nouveau, you are conveniently near to Szabadság tér (Liberty Square to you and I) which makes up in controversy what it lacks in colour. (There is actually a secessionist piece on this street, which houses – what else in such a location – the US Embassy, but good luck getting close; it’s fenced and guarded). Past the abandoned neo-classical monster on the left side that once housed a television centre, you will find the memorial to the Russian soldiers who fell defending Budapest from the Nazis, which is so hated by the right wing elements of the city that until very recently it was protected by a fence from projectiles such as rotten tomatoes and the like. Luckily, it is balanced out by the memorial to the victims of the Nazi occupation which stands at the end of the square, which is actually square. Depending on your view, this memorial is at best tasteless or ugly, but at worst offensive, which is how the Jewish population of Budapest felt. It’s worth seeing, not just to form an opinion, but for the poignancy of the make-shift memorial which has sprung up in front of it; consisting of stones, suitcases, flowers, and testaments to those that died, it is a compelling testament to the past and a fascinating commentary on how we choose to remember tragedy.
After all that controversy, you’ll probably be ready for some Art Nouveau again, and luckily, the city is more than willing to provide. The Ferenc Liszt Academy might look imposing from the outside, but you will thoroughly regret not popping in to have a look around – the entire building is bursting with colour and life, an ongoing testament to the most impressive figures of the art nouveau movement. The entrance hall (according to my guided tour, which you should definitely also do), is designed as a tribute to Dionysus, but with an underwater theme that explains the blue and green mosaic – the god of wine and theatre combined with a love of the inspiration of the sea.