Summer brings the chance to see opera in some stunning surroundings far from the big cities. And if you’re a lover of medieval castles, perhaps the most spectacular of all opera venues is St Olaf’s Castle in Finland’s Savonlinna. Olavinlinna (the castle's Finnish name) needs no moat: that’s provided by the intricate patchwork of lakes around the city. The stage is set in the ancient courtyard.
The 2015 festival runs from July 3rd to August 2nd; it includes five main operas plus a “Little Magic Flute” for children. I’ll be heading there in the festival’s last week, drawn by the enticing prospect of hearing Matti Salminen singing the title role in Boris Godunov. Salminen has been described in these pages as “unwaveringly majestic”, as giving "a poignancy and musical point that I haven’t heard" or having "a glorious booming blackness", and I can't wait to hear him sing Mussorgsky's uniquely dark and richly coloured music, closer to its Russian origins than anywhere I'm likely to get any time soon. While I'm at the festival, I'll also be taking in Tosca, directed by the acclaimed Keith Warner: if ever there was an opera act that should function well in a castle courtyard, Act III of Tosca is surely it. Look out for the "overwhelming wall of sound" that can be unleashed by Elena Pankratova, who is singing the title role on July 18/24/31.
But if the dark introspection of Boris isn't for you, the beginning of the festival has a treat on the lighter side, with Lehár's The Merry Widow. In English-speaking lands, at least, operetta seems to have fallen out of favour, for reasons that I can't quite fathom: every now and then, we need something trivial to cheer us up, and for me, The Merry Widow's confection of an utterly ridiculous plot and the ultimate schmaltz of Lehár's music is irresistible. And for this particular operetta, you couldn't really pick a more appropriate company than the Vienna Volksoper, which is visiting the festival to perform it.