In both musical and culinary arenas, the great megalopolis of Tokyo has something to suit every conceivable taste. Whether you’re after a quick pre-concert bite, or somewhere for a leisurely dinner and post-performance debrief, or are eating on a budget, you’re spoiled for choice.
At one end of the scale are the capital’s many Michelin-starred restaurants – more than any other city in the world – which cover everything from avant-garde fusion to classical French and traditional Japanese. But the other end is just as exciting: hole-in-the-wall eateries serving simple dishes perfected over years; chic cafés where coffee is brewed with scientific precision and sweets made with artistic flair; cosy izakaya bars full of office workers cutting loose after hours.
Here’s our rundown of everything you need to know about food and drink in Tokyo, and what to eat near the city’s major musical venues.
Food and drink in Tokyo
As the country’s capital, it’s no surprise that Tokyo has some of the best Japanese food around. But you’ll also find a huge range of other cuisines, and constantly evolving culinary trends.
Department store food halls offer a great introduction. Usually on a basement level, these depachika are full to bursting with counters serving everything from exquisitely packaged wagashi (Japanese confectionery) to luxury bentō (boxed meals) and fresh-baked bread. Best of all, many of them offer free samples... Some of them are Tokyo institutions, with the Mitsukoshi in Nihonbashi being officially Japan’s oldest department store. Other names to look out for include Isetan, Matsuya and Takashimaya.
Beyond the depachika, dining options run the gamut from cheap and cheerful to eye-wateringly expensive. At the more affordable end are tachinomiya (standing-only bars), yokochō (alleys with small shops and stalls) and the famous vending machine restaurants. Traditional Japanese pubs (izakaya) are usually well-priced, but check if there’s a cover charge: if so, you’ll probably be served a small plate called an otōshi. Many of the city’s high-end restaurants offer “lunch sets”, which are an excellent way to try fine dining for less.
Tokyo’s thriving café scene has you covered for snacks and light lunches. Many of the more retro-style coffee shops (kissaten or kissa) are themed. At meikyoku kissa, as much emphasis is placed on the classical music being played – often on vinyl – as the food, drinks and atmosphere. There are several near stations on the useful Chūō line: Renaissance in Kōenji, an area known for its live-music venues; Violon in Asagaya; and Mignon in Ogikubo, near Suginami Public Hall.
Many of the city’s best restaurants are tucked-away down side streets. If you want to visit a specific one, be sure to check the address carefully before going, as it’s common for restaurants to be on the second storey or above in this high-rise city. Scan the address for anything like 1F (ground level) or B1F (first basement level) to avoid confusion.
Etiquette and table manners
Visitors to Japan often worry about accidentally doing something impolite. But in most casual restaurants, and those not serving Japanese cuisine, the only significant difference is the fact that you shouldn’t tip.
You may need to remove your shoes in more traditional places, but you’ll be instructed to do so if that’s the case. When eating noodles, feel free to slurp them loudly to cool them off and show your appreciation. And when using chopsticks, remember three rules: don’t point with them; don’t stick them upright in your rice; and don’t pass food from one pair to another. Finally, if sitting on the floor, try not to sprawl too much!
Tokyo is also a great place for dining solo. Many establishments have single-person booths, sometimes with a button on the table to attract attention without having to make eye contact or shout. At vending-machine restaurants, tickets are bought at the machine and then handed to a member of staff: they’ll bring your order to the table. Kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt sushi) is also great for solo diners – just don’t put anything back on the belt after removing it.
The language barrier is lower than many first-time visitors expect, especially since the Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games. English menus are now relatively common, and plenty of affordable restaurants have those iconic plastic food models to help you identify dishes.
Allergies and dietary restrictions
It’s fairly straightforward to get by in Japan if you’re pescetarian, and most of the traditional cuisine is naturally dairy free. However, if you have any other requirements – vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, Halal – you’ll find your options much more limited. Awareness may not be as high as you’re used to, with some places assuming dashi (a widely used fish-based stock) counts as vegetarian, or soy sauce is gluten-free.
That said, Tokyo is the best place in the country for diners with dietary restrictions. With some extra planning you’ll be able to enjoy plenty of delicious meals – sites and apps like Happy Cow and Find Me Gluten Free are great resources. You could also print out a card explaining your restrictions in Japanese, which will smooth communication.
There are more and more restaurants focused on a specific diet – such as Monks Foods in Kichijōji (organic, with many vegetarian options), Ain Soph in Shinjuku (vegan), and Gluten Free T’s Kitchen in Roppongi – and the number of Halal-certified places is increasing. In addition, some kaiseki (haute cuisine) restaurants now allow you to specify dietary requirements when pre-booking, including the excellent Minoya in Asakusa. Vegetarians might want to keep an eye out for macrobiotic restaurants and for Indian and Nepalese places, as their menus tend to have more plant-based options.
What to eat around the New National Theatre
Just 15 minutes’ walk from Shinjuku station, the New National Theatre and Opera City are close to some of the city’s most iconic high-end restaurants. Probably the most famous is the Park Hyatt’s New York Bar, featured in the film Lost in Translation, which offers glittering views of the metropolis from the 52nd floor.
Back at ground level, you’ll find that sparkling Shinjuku’s grittier corners also have plenty to offer. One of the area’s most fun dining experiences is at Omoide-yokochō, poetically translated as “Memory Lane”. This bustling alleyway is crammed with tiny eateries, most specialising in street food like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). The language barrier presents no problem here, as each place serves just one or two simple dishes.
Follow up with a visit to Golden Gai, where dozens of micro-bars are packed together into a couple of low-rise blocks. Peek through doors into colourfully decorated rooms and see what takes your fancy – just remember to check the cover charge.
What to eat around Suntory Hall
Near Roppongi-itchōme station, Suntory Hall is ideally located for exploring the Roppongi Art Triangle (Mori Art Museum, Suntory Museum of Art and The National Art Center, Tokyo). The museums are part of a vast, sleek redevelopment of Roppongi, which has brought with it plenty of in-demand restaurants and fashionable brunch spots. It’s the perfect destination for a luxurious dining experience – think wagyū beef, sushi served at small counters and omakase (chef’s choice) menus.
Even the area’s famously raucous nightlife has become more avant-garde and artistic in recent years. You can take your pick from the wood-panelled whisky bars and rooftop terraces, or book ahead for one of the more exclusive spots. The cocktail tasting menus at Gen Yamamoto are a great example of the creativity on show in and around Roppongi.
What to eat around Tokyo Bunka Kaikan
The Tokyo Bunka Kaikan concert hall is on the eastern edge of Ueno Park, near the station of the same name. This part of Tokyo has a laid-back, slightly faded atmosphere, with spots like Ameya-yokochō (an open-air market) retaining a nostalgic mid-century feel.
Though you’ll find the same impressive variety as elsewhere in the city, Ueno has a higher proportion of casual neighbourhood spots. It’s a good place to try yōshoku, a Japanese take on popular Western dishes which developed over the twentieth century. Popular dishes include karēraisu, based on the curries served by the British navy; hanbāgu, a hamburger-style patty usually served with rice and a demi-glace sauce; and tonkatsu, breaded deep-fried pork cutlets, often served on shredded cabbage or in sandwiches.
What to eat around Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre
Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre is located in Ikebukuro, one of the city’s northern neighbourhoods. With a fairly high student population, the area is full of good spots for a quick, cheap meal – including a wide range of noodle restaurants. Whether you’re craving chewy udon, rich rāmen or refreshing tsukemen, you’ll find somewhere specialising in just that.
As is often the case in Japan, you’ll find plenty of restaurants in the station complex, including popular noodle chains like Ippudō and T’s TanTan. The attached Tōbu Ikebukuro department store is also well worth visiting – it has one of the largest depachika in Japan.
To explore further afield, take the Yamanote line three stops to Shin-Ōkubo. You can enjoy a piping hot gamja hot dog or hotteok as you stroll through Tokyo’s Koreatown, or sit down for a hearty bowl of bibimbap or jajangmyeon, or a refreshing shaved-ice bingsu.
Where else to eat in Tokyo
Wherever you’re staying in Tokyo, it’s worth wandering around and exploring the backstreets – you may just stumble upon a gem. But if you find yourself in one of these neighbourhoods, don’t miss their specialities:
● Ginza A ritzy area known for high-end shopping and exclusive dining. Come by at lunchtime for the more affordable lunch sets at Michelin-starred sushi and tempura restaurants.
● Shibuya & Harajuku The centre of Tokyo’s youth culture, full of design-forward cafés. There are several excellent music venues here, including Orchard Hall, Hakuju Hall and NHK Hall. Meikyoku Kissa Lion, a shrine to classical music played on vinyl through the custom-made soundsystem, is a must-visit.
● Asakusa A slice of old Tokyo, full of options for traditional Japanese food. As well as kaiseki-ryōri you can try Buddhist vegetarian cuisine like shōjin-ryōri, and more everyday dishes like ten-don, okonomiyaki, oden and shabu shabu.
● Ryōgoku Across the river from Asakusa, where many sumō wrestlers train. If you find yourself here to see a match, or a concert at Sumida Triphony Hall, follow it up with chanko-nabe – a hearty hotpot popular among the wrestlers.
● Tsukiji & Toyosu The old and new sites of the city’s fish market, unbeatable for fresh fish and seafood. Come by early for a sashimi or sushi breakfast. Nearby Tsukishima is the city’s most famous spot for monjayaki (similar to okonomiyaki).
● Shimokitazawa A few stops west of Shibuya, Shimokitazawa has a global and creative atmosphere. Visit for laid-back bars and live music venues, bohemian cafés, and the original branch of Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory, makers of the famous Totoro cream puff.
See our complete guide to classical music in Tokyo.
This article was sponsored by Tokyo Tokyo.
