Ask any classical music aficionado to name a Dutch concert hall, and the likely response will be the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam. But this world-famous venue is not the only place in the Dutch capital where you can hear top-tier performers. They are just as likely to appear at the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, an eye-catching glass-encased building just a twenty-minute walk from Central Station.
For twenty years, the Muziekgebouw (pronounced moo-zeek ge-bow annet ay) has been a premier stage for contemporary classical music. It is the go-to destination for 20th- and 21st-century repertoire, as well as world premieres performed by leading ensembles such as Klangforum Wien, Ensemble Intercontemporain, and Het Muziek (formerly Asko|Schönberg).
Yet the Muziekgebouw’s programming extends far beyond this speciality, spanning music eras from the early Renaissance to the present and embracing a wide range of genres – from choral concerts to world music, and from song recitals by leading singers to full symphonic repertoire. Moreover, its waterfront location also invites visitors to discover another side of Amsterdam, beyond the canal-girdled old centre and the crowds thronging Museum Square to see the Rembrandts and the Van Goghs.
The best way to appreciate the Muziekgebouw’s spectacular setting is from inside its imposing, multi-storey foyer. Surrounded by water on three sides, the building is designed as a box-within-a-box: the Main Hall, seating 725, sits within a larger glass structure that defines the exterior. Jutting from one side on concrete pillars, like a giant treehouse, is the Bimhuis – Amsterdam’s iconic jazz club, showcasing contemporary jazz and improvised music.
The glass foyer affords a panoramic view of the river IJ (the Dutch diphthong ij is treated as one letter, hence the capitalisation), which is a busy hub connecting Amsterdam to inland waterways and the North Sea. From the atrium, you can watch a steady stream of vessels, from small pleasure boats to the massive cruise ships that dwarf them. (The Amsterdam cruise terminal is practically next door.)
But the atrium is not just aesthetically impressive. Its “decks” or landings, double as performance and exhibition spaces, and come alive during festivals, when concerts overspill into the Bimhuis. The Muziekgebouw hosts the Cello Biennale and the String Quartet Biennale, as well as multi-day celebrations of composers such as Arvo Pärt and Kaija Saariaho. For those who want to max out on minimal music, there is the Minimal Music Festival.
The surrounding area offers plenty of sightseeing opportunities and can serve as a convenient base for exploring the rest of the city. The nearby Mövenpick Hotel has riverside rooms with stunning views. Don’t be surprised if you meet a famous soprano or violinist in the lift – many artists performing at the Muziekgebouw stay at this address. Or book a room at the beautiful Lloyd Hotel, a prestige project built in 1921 by the Royal Holland Lloyd shipping line, whose ships departed from the nearby quays.
For a retro touch, Pension Homeland exudes 1960s nostalgia, with a popular swimming spot favoured by students just outside. A little farther afield, about half an hour by public transport, is the Volkshotel. This former newspaper building is decorated in a quirky artsy-meets-industrial style and has a sauna and hot tubs on the roof.
The Muziekgebouw stands at the western edge of the Eastern Docklands, a system of wharfs and man-made islands connected by dams and bridges. This once thriving harbour had fallen into disuse by the 1970s. In the 1990s, the area began its transformation into the desirable residential district that it is today. Abandoned warehouses were converted into homes and offices, while striking new buildings appeared, such as the Piraeus apartment building on KNSM Island.
You can spend hours ambling on the islands, discovering the architectural variety and inventiveness of this now very trendy neighbourhood. Don’t miss walking across the snaking red Python Bridge, a foot bridge which links the Sporenburg and Borneo islands. If you fancy staying on one of the islands, Hotel Jakarta on Java Island is a slice of Indonesia in Amsterdam, complete with a subtropical indoor garden.
Back on the mainland, two of Amsterdam’s finest museums are within easy reach. The Nemo Science Museum, designed by Renzo Piano atop an underwater traffic tunnel, rises from the water like the hull of a giant ship. Its hands-on exhibits make it a family favourite, while its rooftop terrace affords sweeping views of the city.
Water, from shallow canals to far-flung seas, has shaped Amsterdam’s history as much as its geography. The Scheepvaartmuseum, a 17th-century warehouse once used by the Amsterdam Admiralty, is about all things maritime. Its largest exhibits are vessels themselves: a 19th-century royal sloop, a 1900 icebreaker, and a replica of a Dutch East India Company ship – the kind that helped make Holland a trading and naval superpower.
Also worth checking out is OBA Oosterdok, the largest public library in the Netherlands, which holds frequent exhibitions. If you’re looking for a green oasis in the middle of the city bustle, Artis Zoo is as much a garden as a zoo. Alternatively, visit the more tranquil Hortus Botanicus, one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens.
Across the IJ lies Amsterdam Noord, another part of Amsterdam worth exploring. It is accessible by metro or, infinitely more fun, by boarding one of the free ferries behind Central Station. Film buffs will gravitate toward the Eye Film Museum, with its permanent collection tracing the history of film. Its temporary exhibitions and film screenings often centre around a particular visual artist or director. Two more alternatives to the traditional art museum are Straat, which displays graffiti and street art, and Nxt, where immersive light installations fuse art with technology.
A popular Noord destination is the A’dam Lookout on top of the Amsterdam Tower. You can take in the 360-degree view from the observation tower or, if you dare, get on a swing that takes you over the edge, 100 meters above the ground.
The NDSM wharf, a former dockyard, now teems with hip eateries such as Pllek, which boasts its own sandy beach. At the opposite side of the Noord district, you’ll find another favourite with the locals. The confusingly named Hotel de Goudfazant is not a hotel at all, but a restaurant serving unpretentious, tasty fare. Be aware, however, that distances in Noord are greater than in the city centre, and public transport less frequent, so some planning is advised.
Dining options near the Muziekgebouw itself are plentiful. If you have the whole evening to spend on dinner and are feeling adventurous, you could try TestTafel at the Mediamatic art centre. The chefs at this experimental restaurant create a new plant-based seasonal menu each week. Alternatively, try Scheepskameel, whose unique selling point is an extensive wine list consisting exclusively of German wines.
If you plan to attend an evening concert at the Muziekgebouw, the in-house restaurant Dudok aan ’t IJ is the natural choice for a pre-concert dinner, best enjoyed on its waterfront terrace in fine weather. A short walk away, Hannekes Boom is a waterside café with a more casual atmosphere. For an authentic Chinese meal, book a table at Sea Palace, a floating restaurant that is a true Amsterdam landmark.
Once the music starts at the Muziekgebouw, one of the first things you will notice are the excellent acoustics. The Concertgebouw is famous for its sound, but the Muziekgebouw gives it more than a run for its money. Voices especially carry beautifully across the hall and up to the balconies.
This is no accident. The hall was designed with flexible configuration in mind. The floor can be raised to stage level, and the reverberation time can be tailored to the type of concert by adjusting the movable ceiling panels. The superb acoustics are just one more reason why this is a must-visit concert venue.
With repertoire ranging from Baroque to electronic, and from chamber music to music theatre, the Muziekgebouw caters to every classical taste. Thursday evenings are reserved for its absolute forte – contemporary music. This is when you are most likely to hear works fresh from the composer’s desk. And what could be more exciting than discovering a new favourite piece as it comes alive on stage for the first time?
See upcoming events at the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ.
Web links
Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ
Box office open Mon–Sat from 3pm.
Bimhuis
Box office open concert nights from 6.30pm.
Nemo Science Museum
Open Tues–Sun and some Mondays, 10am to 5.30pm.
Scheepvaartmuseum
Open Mon–Sun, 10am to 5pm.
Amsterdam Public Library
Open Mon–Sun, 8am/10am to 10pm.
Eye Film Museum
Open Mon–Sun, 10am to 7pm. Late opening for film screenings.
This article was sponsored by the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ.
