The French saying that “to choose is to forgo” might have been created to describe Paris. There are so many offerings in every form of the arts that it can be hard to decide on which to single out, especially if one is looking for an experience out of the ordinary, away from the beaten track. For that reason, we offer you this guide unlike others, to help you plan that unique and perfect evening in France’s fascinating capital. Let us help you discover (or remind you of) exceptional places where not everyone goes.
The most spectacular: Fondation Louis Vuitton
One of the city’s latest additions is the Fondation Louis Vuitton, in the Bois de Boulogne to the west of Paris. Emerging as if organically from the surrounding woodland, Frank Gehry’s sumptuous ship-shaped building takes your breath away the moment you see it. And nowhere in the building does the magic operate more forcefully than in its Auditorium, located at the very prow of the vessel. Since you are seated opposite immense windows, you can hear a concert while contemplating the changing light in the sky, the movement of water flowing over the waterfall outside, or the forest leaves rustling in the wind.
In perfect harmony with this enchanting setting, the programming is both demanding and prestigious. Piano recitals are a speciality of the house, which in just a few years has become a benchmark for the form. Stars like Lang Lang, Yunchan Lim have been there, as well as the duo of Yuja Wang and Gautier Capuçon and jazz greats Brad Mehldau and Herbie Hancock. The exhibitions are also accompanied by specific programming, with immersive devices inviting visitors to experience the building in different ways (the current exhibition, entitled David Hockney 25, is on view until the end of August). And expect to spend an hour or two at Le Frank restaurant, whose elegant decor and attractive garden views will guarantee relaxation.
The most impressionist: Musée d’Orsay
Obviously enough, when visiting Paris, the list of unmissable venues includes a number of museums, amongst which the Musée d’Orsay is an incomparable jewel. What’s less well known is that in addition to its art, the museum stages a season of concerts. Just like the Louvre, this first class museum contains an auditorium used for shows and conferences as well as classical music and jazz. To complement excellent programming in traditional format, there are also musical events which take place in other spaces in the museum, alongside sculpture and paintings, providing synaesthetic experiences which renew the relationship between the viewer and each of the arts.
The main atrium is often used for live spectacles, whether it’s a dance performance choreographed by Carolyn Carlson or a walkabout created by theatre company Cours Florent. Every year, participants from the Académie Orsay-Royaumont, remarkable piano-voice duos chosen for their expertise in Lieder or French mélodies, are invited to create musical walkthroughs which match these finely crafted art songs with the surrounding paintings.
The most imperial: Les Invalides
For heritage lovers, Les Invalides is another source of wonderment, both architectural, historical and aesthetic. Most famously, Napoleon is buried there, under the unmissable golden dome overlooking the city. It's also a concert venue with a season organised by the Army Museum. Concerts take place at lunchtime and in the evening in the Cathédrale Saint-Louis (orchestral and choral) or in the Grand Salon (recitals and chamber music), arranged in cycles whose themes resonate with the Museum’s exhibitions.
And since you’re in the 7th arrondissement, if you have the desire (and the means!) for an unforgettable culinary experience, allow yourself a pleasure out of the ordinary in the shape of lunch at chef Alain Passard’s renowned three-star restaurant l’Arpège.
The most literary: Bibliothèque nationale de France
The National Library of France is home to priceless treasures which are regularly displayed to the general public in fascinating exhibitions. But there’s another reason to cross the threshold of this temple of knowledge: the musical season staged in partnership with Radio France in the grand auditorium of its François-Mitterrand site in the 13th arrondissement. The works are all chosen to have some relevance to a manuscript in the BnF – perhaps a work whose score is in the collection, or music inspired by an author. By the way, other concerts are staged at the historic Salle Ovale at the BnF’s Richelieu site, not for from the Palais Royal), most notably in partnership with the Cité des Compositrices, an organisation which promotes the work of women composers.
If you’re at the François-Mitterrand site and you want to decompress after all that erudition, walk along the Seine until you see a pink flamingo buoy: you have now reached Off Paris Seine, an undeniably original and charismatic bar and hotel on the water which demands that you stop there.
The most intimate: Bibliothèque musicale La Grange-Fleuret
On the other bank, a more discreetly positioned library commands your attention. A former mansion belonging to Henry-Louis de La Grange (a famous biographer of Gustav Mahler) and Maurice Fleuret (in charge of music at the Ministry of Culture in the 1980s), the Bibliothèque musicale La Grange-Fleuret is filled with riches: scores, recordings, archives and more. It’s a gold mine for musicologists and artists alike.
The concert programming designed to match these artifacts shines light on repertoire not often found in the more usual venues. The salon’s intimate dimensions make it a lovely place for chamber music or piano recitals given on their recently restored 1907 Steinway. And while you’re in the neighbourhood, don't miss the chance to extend your escape with a stroll through the Parc Monceau, just a stone’s throw away, or to chill at the restaurant Le Nélie in the Musée Jacquemart-André, also nearby.
The most unlikely: La Scala Paris
Squarely in the middle of one of the capital’s liveliest neighbourhoods, at the heart of the 10th arrondissement, is La Scala Paris. The name is misleading: this isn’t a French branch of the über-famous opera house in Milan, but a private theatre (and former porn cinema!) which nowadays puts on shows in several different genres. Even within the classical ambit, the offerings are intelligently diverse. As well as baroque concerts and piano recitals, the festival “Aux armes, contemporains” shines the spotlight on new compositions, under the leadership of Rodolphe Bruneau-Boulmier, an established producer at radio station France Musique and himself a composer.
There’s an on-site restaurant and bar too. Reservation is recommended, but not to worry if they’re full – there are plenty of worthwhile eateries in the environs: Le Bouillon Julien, Chez Jeannette or one of the terraces in the charming Rue des Petites Écuries. If you’re a cocktail lover, head for BaraNaan Street Food & Cocktail Bar, well hidden and highly sought after. More energetic night owls can continue the evening at Les Étoiles, a small and welcoming local club.
The most exotic: Bal Blomet
Well known as a venue for jazz and world music, the Bal Blomet is less known as a classical concert hall. A legendary cabaret from the Roaring Twenties, the hall retains its own unique cachet. Apart from anything else, drinks and light snacks are available to eat during the performance – a rare thing in Paris and one that harks back to the atmosphere of New York speakeasies. Throughout the year, in front of its signature red brick wall, you can see not only jazz stars but also opera singers and chamber musicians.
Kiki’s Bar stays open after the concerts and you can sometimes meet the artists there. Or if you have the time to go towards Montparnasse, wander in the direction of the irresistible wine bar Le Vitis (which also serves food).
The most exciting: Conservatoire National Supérieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris
To the North-East of the city, La Villette teems with places of culture: the Philharmonie, the Grande Halle, Le Zénith to name just a few. But as you get out of the Métro at Porte de Pantin, there’s one large building directly in your face but that one tends to overlook – and unfairly so. The Conservatoire National Supérieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris (CNSMDP for short) is a prestigious establishment which trains tomorrow’s professionals, many of whose number win prizes at international competitions even before graduating. All year, the Conservatoire presents concerts which form an integral part of their courses, all the way from recitals to fully staged operas. There's a bewildering variety of formats, styles and disciplines, reflecting the wealth of genres tackled by the CNSMDP. For anyone interested in seeing developing talent and the new generation of artists, it's a must!
Around the CNSMDP, you can enjoy the Café de la Musique, very much the heart of the neighbourhood. Or if you want something a bit more lively, head across the forecourt to the Petite Halle, sure to have atmosphere at all times of day but particularly in the evenings. It's an altogether different style of programming: friendly, inclusive and downright festive!
This article was sponsored by Fondation Louis Vuitton.
